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You are here: Home » Guides » Packaging Equipment » Troubleshooting » Phoenix E-1 » Page 7: Installing Lower Tape Plate

Phoenix E-1 Troubleshooting Guides

Page 7: Installing Lower Tape Plate

Before Any Maintenance Procedure - UNPLUG THE MACHINE

Removal

Replacing the Lower Tape Plate (700LTPSS) does require that the machine frames be opened so the old tape plate can be removed and the new stainless steel plate can be installed.

  1. Remove the water bottle water tank, and upper tape plate.
  2. Remove the Key Drum on left side of machine - remove the key drum cover (5 small screws). Disconnect the large white connector from the control board to the frame of the machine. Also remove the 5 wire connector from the tape length sensor. Inside the key drum are 4 10/32 phillip head screws at each corner of the key drum.
  3. Remove the Motor Cover from the right side of the tape machine (3 screws) and unplug the Top Heater from the machine
  4. Locate the small retaining clip that holds the Felt Oiler and Top Heater Rod. Remove this Clip. Note: If the screw and nut are rusted you may have to use a hammer and chisel to break the screw off. Once the Clip is removed, you can pull both rods out. NOTE: There is a small spring on the right side of the felt Oiler. Hold onto this spring when removing the rod.
  5. Next, you have to remove the Upper Feed Wheel Shaft. Locate the 3/32 set screw on the chain sprocket. This will be on the right side of the Upper Feed Wheel Shaft. Loosen this set screw. This will allow you to turn the Upper Feed Wheel Shaft by hand.
  6. On the left side frame locate the Tape Length Sensor Bracket. This has 2 small screws that hold the sensor to the left side frame of the machine. Loosne both screw and push the Sensor down so that the Upper Feed Wheel Shaft can be removed.
  7. If your machine has a nylon upper feed wheel there are 3 collars each with a 3/32 set screw. Loosen all of these set screws. Slide the nylon upper feed wheel to the right to expose a small groove pin. Remove this pin. and the Upper Feed Wheel Shaft should slide out to the left. If you machine has a metal upper feed wheel loosen the 2 set screws on the collar of the metal upper feed wheel and loosen each set screw on the left and right collars next to the frame. This should allow you to slide the Upper Feed Wheel Shaft out to the left.
  8. Stand the machine up on it's back cover. Remove the Tank Support Shelf. There are 4 screws that hold the shel in. If the screws are rusted you may need to break the screws off with a hammer and chisel. Next remove the Lower Front Cover. This has a 5" long screw with a nut on the left side.
  9. Remove the Shear Spring (connected from the Solenoid Plate to the Cutter Yoke Assembly).
  10. Remove both the Upper and Lower Shears.

    Removing Upper Shear: The Upper Shear is held into the Cutter Yoke Assembly with a long screw with a nut on the left side. Using pliers break the nut free. On the left side there is a cutout in the frame. This cutout allows you to use a slotted screw driver to remove the shear rod. Unscrew the rod and then pull it out. With the rod out you can then pull the Upper Shear down and out towards you.

    Removing the Lower Shear is simple. Pop the 2 springs on each side of the Lower Shear of the pins on each side frame and pull the Lower Shear up and out.

  11. Remove the Cutter Yoke Support Bar. You must remove the Cutter Yoke Support Bar. This is the chrome bar just under the Cutter Yoke Assembly. It is held into the machine by a snap ring on the outside of the left and right frame. Remove the snap ring on the outside of the right frame and slide the bar out to the left.
  12. With all of these parts removed you can now loosen the screws that will allow the frames to open up a little. If the machine is still sitting on it's back cover star by loosening the two left side screws that hold the Solenoid Plate.
  13. Place the machine back down on the service bench. While not critical we also remove both the front and rear covers to make it easier. Now loosen all of the screws (1/4-20 screws) on the left side frame. There are 2 that hold the back wall and 2 that hold the Tape Basket in. There is also a 1/4-20 screws that holds the tie rod. The tie rod is the large slotted chrome rod in the tape basket that holds both tape side guides. Loosen as much as possible without removing the nuts.
  14. You should now  be able to spread the frames apart enough to remove the old lower tape plate and install the new lower tape plate.

Installing New Lower Tape Plate

  1. Slide the new Lower Tape Plate into position. Use a screw and nut on the left side to hold the tape plate in position.
  2. Turn the machine so the left side is facing down on the service bench. Line up the five shafts that come through the right side frame. 2 Wooden Rollers with steel pins in the tape basket area, Lower Feed Wheel Shaft, Cutter Yoke Assembly Shaft, and the small chrome bar in the tape basket area just under the back of the lower tape plate. Once these shafts are lined up press down on the right side frame and double check to make sure these 5 shafts are in position.
  3. Carefully set the machine upright and tighten all of the 1/4-20 screws that were loosened. Again, check to make sure all of the shafts are through the right side frame.
  4. Re-Install the Shears. From the top drop the Lower Shear through the Upper tape Plate and place the left and right springs over the frame pins. Slide the Upper Shear from the front of the machine up and into the Yoke Assembly. NOTE: You will have to use a small screwdriver to push the lower shear back so the Upper Shear will slide in in front of the lower shear. Re-install the rod and nut that hold the Upper Shear into the Yoke Assembly.
  5. Re-Install the Tank Support Shelf  (4- 10/32 screws/nuts), Shear Spring, and Lower Front Cover.
  6. Re-Install the Upper Feed Wheel Shaft (UFWS). From the left side slide the UFWS though the left side frame.

    If you use a Nylon Feed Wheel:
    Once the UFWS is through the left side frame, add (in this order) 1 collar, the nylon feed wheel, a second and third collar then continue sliding the UFWS though the right fame and add the chain sprocket.

    If you use a metal feed wheel:
    Once the UFWS is through the left side frame add (in this order) 1 collar, the metal feed  wheel, the second collar then continue sliding the UFWS through the right side frame and add the chain sprocket

    Do not tighten any of the set screws yet.
  7. On the left side frame is the Tape Length Sensor and Brackett. This was loosened and moved down earlier to all the removal of the UFWS. Move the Tape Length Sensor Bracket up so that the small metal Measuring Wheel is between the two posts of the tape Length Sensor. Move the UFWS left or right until the Metal Measuring Wheel is centered between each post. Make sure the Measuring Wheel is not rubbing either post.
  8. Now tighten all of the set screws (collars, feed wheels, chain sprocket).
  9. Re-install the Shear Oiler and Top Heater (see proceeding steps). Note that the bars for the Shear Oiler and Top Heater are notched on one side. The notch is for the retaining clip that holds these bars.
  10. Drop the Shear Oiler in behind the Upper Shear. Carefully compress the Shear Oiler Spring using your thumb and fore finger. Squeeze the spring into the space on the right side of the Shear Oiler making sure on of the spring tips is against the back of the Shear Oiler and one of the tips is on the lower tape plate. Hold that spring in with one hand. With the other hand slide the Shear Oiler Bar through the right side frame, through the spring, the shear oiler and left side frame.
  11. Slide the Top Heater Rod through the right side frame with the notch in the bar is to the right. Slide the first brass roller onto the bar, then the Top Heater, then the second brass roller. Then slide the bar through the left side frame.
  12. Reinstall the Retaining Clip that holds both the Shear Oiler and Top heater rods.
  13. Re-install the Key Drum  NOTE: When screwing the Key pad back onto the left side frame it is easier to start with the upper right screw. Hold the key drum up and at a lsight angle to screw this screw int then move on to the other 3 screews.
  14. Re-connect both the large white connector to the connector on the left frame and the connector from the Tape Length Sensor to the Main Control Board.
  15. You may have to adjust the Tape Length Sensor Bracket so leave the side cover off the key drum.
  16. If you removed the front and rear covers replace those. You can use a slotted screw driver to "pop" those back onto the small tabs coming out of the frames.
  17. Plug the machine in and test to see if the tape lengths are correct. You will need to drop the Upper tape Plate back into the machine so the tape will not jam. ALSO, when dispensing tape, tape jams may occur if the water tank and moistening brushes are not re-installed.  If the tape lengths are not correct, you may have to adjust the Tape length Sensor inside the key drum.

    Adjusting Tape Length Sensor:
    The tape length sensor is mounted on a small chrome bracket that is affixed to the left side frame. Loosen the 2 screws and move the bracket slightly up. Make sure the metal Measuring Wheel is turning in between each post on the tape length sensor.  Re-test to see if tape lengths are correct. NOTE: If 3 of the tape lengths are correct, they will all be correct. For example, test 6", 12" and 24". There is no need to test all atpe lengths.

  18. Once tape lengths are correct, replace the key drum side cover, motor cover, water tank, and water bottle.

If you have any questions regarding these - or any other - maintenance procedures, please call us at 1 (800) 899-9389.

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